This can easily be done with a 20p coin – see the diagram at Tyre Safe
Check for any damage such as splits in the tread, bulges or cuts in the sidewalls.
Also check the tyre pressure is correct – the car’s manual will list the right pressure and they might also be on the sidewall of the tyre itself - and increase it at a petrol station if necessary.
The handbrake: check the tension in your handbrake. If it slides up and down without resistance and can’t be ratcheted to a set level, there’s likely to be a problem needing fixing by a professional mechanic.
Seats and seatbelts: check the driver’s seat adjusts forwards and backwards and inspect the full length of the seatbelt for any damage.
Check all the seatbelts latch and fasten securely, and lock when you give them a sharp tug.
Windscreen: any damage wider than 10mm in the driver’s central view will cause an MOT fail, as will any damage larger than 40mm in the whole of the swept area.
Windscreen wipers: make sure your wipers clean your windscreen effectively along with the washers.
Remember, any tears or holes in the wiper rubber can mean an MOT fail.
Suspension check: check the shock absorbers by applying your weight to each corner of the car then quickly releasing it.
The corner of the car should quickly return to its original position.
If it bounces more than twice, this could mean the shock absorbers are faulty and need to be checked.
Horn: give a short blast of the horn – if it doesn’t work or isn’t loud enough to attract the attention of pedestrians or other motorists, get it repaired.
Exhaust: check for exhaust leaks by starting the engine in a well-ventilated space at normal temperature, then listen from the rear of the car for any unusual noises or abnormal smoke.
Fuel and engine oil: make sure your car is filled with enough fuel and engine oil – you can be turned away from the MOT if there isn’t enough to test your car’s emissions levels properly.